Deep, superripe aromas of nutty, charred oak and iodine. Velvety, full-bodied and mouthfilling; huge and sweet. Even thicker than the above but not yet showing the Criots' extravagant personality. Immense, palate-staining aftertaste.

I tasted two separate Puligny-Montrachet cuvees. The first had a slightly more interesting nose, revealing apples, flowers and toasty oak. Its medium-bodied character offered an appealingly rich, marzipan-flavored attack that dissipated quickly. The second cuvee is creamed nut-scented, and exhibits a tangy, grilled almond character. Both cuvees are delicious and well-made yet would have needed to have more depth, palate presence, and length for a loftier review. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel (212) 355-0700.