The 2018 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru is impressive. Rich, pliant and beautifully layered, the Mont de Milieu is one of the highlights in this range. Perfumed aromatics and silky fruit add to its considerable appeal. A touch of oak in fermentation works so well here. Some of the wines in this range are more obvious and more showy, but few are as refined or as complete. The Mont de Milieu is so inviting.

The 2018 Chablis Mont de Milieu was fermented in 10% new ok and the rest stainless steel, followed by 9 months in barrel. It has a floral nose, featuring dandelion mixed with mown grass; a little earthiness develops with aeration. The palate is well balanced with better acidity than the La Forêt, and quite saline, especially toward the finish. A spicy note lingers on the aftertaste. Enjoy this well-crafted Chablis over the next 6–8 years.

Tank sample. Dusty and less ripe-fruited on the nose than the Montmain. More stony and pure citrus with biting freshness and impressive persistence. (JH)