Resiny minerals can be detected in the nose of the 2004 Chablis Montmains. Plump, ample, and rich, it offers toast, apple, and pear flavors in a soft, extroverted character. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. The Raveneau brothers were in the process of bottling their 2004s when I visited the estate in late April, 2006. “This is a vintage of pleasure, the 2004s are simple wines, they do not have a powerful constitution,” said Bernard Raveneau, who concentrates on vineyard work and handles the vinifications. (His brother Francois deals with all the tractor work as well as the administrative issues.) He reiterated what I’d heard in all of Burgundy’s cellars, that the yields had gotten totally out of control during the rain-plagued month of August. “We harvested 70 hectoliters per hectare on average across the entire estate. We’ve never seen such a plethoric vintage!” Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

The whites began with the 2004 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru from Domaine François Raveneau. This has a light waxy bouquet with scents of white flowers and Japanese yuzu. A saline influence becomes noticeable with time. The palate displays satisfying weight, though I feel this lacks a bit of tension. Lime and sour lemon surface towards the finish. There is fine length, but you got the sense that the growing season shaved off the élan that great Raveneau has in spades. Apropos my own contribution, well, I took a chance, a chance that paid off.