The 2010 Meursault Genevrieres is another fabulous wine from Jobard. Today, the battle is between the intensity of the fruit and the wine’s minerality, both of which play off each other. Pears, citrus, crushed rocks and white peaches flesh out over time, but today, the 2010 is mostly about texture and vibrancy, two qualities it has in spades. This is a delicate, feminine, understated style for Genevrieres. But it works, and then some. This is a great showing from Remi Jobard. Anticipated maturity: 2015+. Remi Jobard describes the 2010s as having the richness of the 2009s and the elegance of the 2008s. I suppose that’s as good a description as any. Jobard began bringing in his 2010s on September 21. Yields are down a whopping 40-50%, but in exchange Jobard has a superb set of wines that are rich yet not at all heavy. It is a vintage in which the personality of each of these sites comes through in spades. As I mentioned last year, Jobard is among the small but growing number of white Burgundy producers experimenting with foudres, which seems to work especially well with his wines. The Narvaux, Genevrieres, Poruzots are partly aged in foudre, while the Charmes is done entirely in foudre. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

The 2010 Meursault Les Genevrières 1er Cru is more neutral in style on a nose of Puligny-Montrachet–like austerity. I would like to have seen more Meursault character here; I feel a bit shortchanged aromatically. The palate is saline on the entry and lightly spiced with commendable tension. It feels very linear and, to quibble, it is missing a little personality toward the finish. Capable, but not memorable. Tasted at Sarah Marsh’s 2010 white burgundy tasting in London.

Very pale. Rather introvert and not yet fully open. Very positive impact on the palate. Lots of chewiness and tension. I don’t think this is ready yet and it’s not showing any sign of oxidation. Mouth-filling – makes an impact but in a sturdy, yeoman sort of way. (JR)