Bright, full red. Red cherry, rose petal and spices on the vibrant nose. Juicy and brisk in the mouth, conveying excellent intensity and peppery grip to the raspberry and mineral flavors. Classic 2013 in its spicy energy, fruit purity and definition: this has the inner-palate tension and intensity to carry it for 15 years. Lovely soil character here. Finishes with firm, tooth-dusting tannins and slowly building length and lift.

The 2013 Morey-Saint-Denis La Riotte 1er Cru, which I have not tasted since in barrel, has a fragrant, pressed flower, sous-bois and red berry bouquet, a little rustic in style but so harmonious and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, impressive density for the vintage and plenty of freshness. It does not possess the complexity of the succeeding two vintages, yet there is energy and density here that feels very satisfying. Tasted at Flint Wines’ Taupenot-Merme retrospective.

Same geology as Mazoyères. One of Morey’s leading premiers crus. And most of the vines are very old (see Olivier Jouan). Taupenot vines are about 55 years old. Quite rich on the nose. Lots there with very impressive depth. Bitter cherries. Just a bit tough on the end. (JR)