Good full red. Fruit-driven aromas of cherry, raspberry and wild plum. Rich, silky and full; offers superb volume without excess weight, thanks to the lift contributed by the calcaire A sappy peppery nuance adds verve. This really spreads out to coat the palate. Finishes brisk, gripping and long, with sweet tannins supported by fruits and spices.

The 2005 Chapelle-Chambertin – from what the Trapet family, but others too, refer to as the warmest, sweetest spot on these rocks – exudes black cherry, licorice, lily flower, and mocha. Rich, creamy, and soft on the palate (particularly for a 2005), but without being overly fat, and with a lightly-cooked aspect to its black fruits yet preserving an infectious juiciness, this offers a veritable welcome mat of a finish. While it will doubtless age positively for a decade or more, it should drink well much sooner. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain (86), 2005 Bourgogne Aminima ($25.00; 85), 2005 Marsannay (86). Young Jean-Louis Trapet evinces an inspiring degree of sincerity and that rarest of human virtues “humbition”. He is clearly determined to return his family’s estate to the celebrated place they occupied on the international stage for much of the late 20th century, and thinks a critical tool is the practice of biodynamics, in which the domaine was recently officially certified. Nature certainly cooperated in 2005 almost regardless of method let alone metaphysics, and this is a promising collection. The wines are not sulfured at all during their elevage, and only minimally at bottling, demanding that the typical taster re-calibrate his or her palate accordingly. A Patrick Lesec Selection (various importers), Paris Fax 011 33 4 66 37 67 23.