Very pretty Chardonnay dominance; pineapple, citric fruit, a lick of honey and a pleasing finish, with a touch of salinity in support. Wonderful!

2012 was Caroline Latrive’s first vintage as Chef de Cave at Ayala, and I visited her in 2012, and I remember her excitement and also her optimism about turning this once-famous house back into one of the greats in the region. It is, therefore, a great pleasure to finally taste a wine which she must have felt, at the time, would set the scene for her tenure at Ayala. Caroline has described the 2012 vintage as being “Characterised by a very particular climatology and absolutely perfect grape health at the harvest. The extracted musts were of exceptional quality, very healthy, and the Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs turned out to be particularly concentrated and characterful. A vintage reminiscent of the generosity of 2002, combined with the tension of 2008.” I can echo her sentiments because this is a sensational release. Made from a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir it shows just how passionate Caroline is about the Chardonnay grape, and the fruit is superbly harmonious, deep and resonant and yet, at the same time, pure, clean, summery and floral. This is a masterful exercise in balancing decadent with poise, and it is drinking beautifully already! (Drink now – 2030)