Aromas of iodine, tangerine oil and citrus zest mingle with nuances of smoke, crushed chalk, walnut oil and freshly baked bread, introducing the 2008 Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons, a full-bodied, tensile and tight-knit wine that's much more linear and incisive by comparison with the broader, fleshier 2009 that preceded it. Long, intense and searingly chalky, this is still a few years away from drinking at its peak, but its quality is already apparent.

The 2008 Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Speciale is a blend of fruit from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Avize and Cramant. Deep, resonant and beautifully layered in the glass, the 2008 is super-impressive. I especially admire the way the wine fleshes out with a bit of air. Citrus, sage, menthol and dried flowers add nuance to what is a very powerful wine. The 2008 saw full malolactic fermentation, with some bâtonnage for added texture. This is a superb showing from the Rothschild family.