The 2004 Clos des Goisses is dense and powerful in the glass, with all of the pure, unbridled energy that has always been such a signature here. Hints of lemon peel, mint, spice and crushed rocks emerge with time in the glass, but, despite its considerable beauty and unquestioned pedigree, the 2004 is frankly years away from delivering the full Clos des Goisses experience. Disgorged February 2013.

– vinous.com, March 2015

A vintage now entering a perfect stage of maturity, Philipponnat’s legendary single vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ is showing an explosive aromatic range of dried pear, grapefruit and orange zest, bright on one hand yet also characteristically deep in bramble, walnut and honey on sourdough bread. It’s a relatively vinous, serious and concentrated 2004 as one would expect from this site, although for Goisses it is right down the middle, almost classical in framing. A swashbuckling, personable Goisses ready to take on another decade.

From their iconic steep, south-facing, riverside vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay - acquired in 1935 - Philipponnat's strikingly beautiful 2004 Brut Clos des Goisses betrays no suggestion of alcoholic weight or opacity such as one might associate with an especially warm, fast-ripening vineyard. On the contrary, this is a bottling that combines silken feel with delicacy, refreshment, and utmost transparency to nuance. Chamomile, mint and lily-of-the-valley don't just turn heads from the rim of the glass; they waft through this wine's entire palate performance, against a greenhouse-like background of diverse if elusive flowering and leafing things. Salivary gland-tugging salinity and hints of chalk suffuse a fruit matrix of white peach, lime, red raspberry and red currant whose juicy, subtly crunchy expressions put me a bit in mind of certain supreme Nahe Rieslings. This site's reflection in the Marne River is itself iconic, but its reflection in your glass will prove kaleidoscopically spellbinding. That effect persisted during the four days I had the pleasure of following this 2004, and I suspect that subsequent bottles will prove worth following for at least a decade. The house of Philipponnat - which owns 44 prime acres in and around Mareuil-sur-Ay, its base of operations ever since having completed a new press house and cellar there in 2004 - is headed by Charles Philipponat, although it's owned by the group that controls Champagne Bruno Paillard Philipponnat. This house's Clos des Goisses estate vineyard is justly renowned, but on the occasion of my recent tasting, their extra brut "1522" - named for the year in which the first Philipponnat began farming vines, in Ay - proved almost as compelling. Importer: The Rare Wine Company, Sonoma, CA; tel. (800) 999-4342

One of the finest vintages of Clos des Goisses in this decade, this is generously fragrant, showing a ripe, richly extroverted fruitiness that’s just beginning to acquire burnished, golden hints of development. It’s surprisingly ample for the vintage, yet it has a lot of poise and lift as well, particularly on the long, saline and energetic finish. It’s superb now, but indicates potential for further ageing too. Disgorged: February 2011. Drinking Window: 2024 - 2044
Tasted by: Peter Liem (at Malmö, Sweden, 12 Dec 2023)
Part of Philipponnat: An 'astounding' Clos des Goisses 1978-2014 vertical

(65% pinot nor and 35% chardonnay; disgorged May, 2013): Vivid yellow. Heady, mineral-driven scents of fresh citrus and orchard fruits, white flowers, anise and iodine, with toasty lees and herbal notes coming up with air. Densely packed Meyer lemon and bitter pear skin flavors become sweeter with air and show excellent focus. The smoke and floral qualities come back on the mineral-dominated finish, which lingers with outstanding tenacity. I'll bet that this superbly balanced Champagne will reward many years of cellaring.

Quality 985 | Brand 900 | Economics 914 |


Quality: Predicted life of 23 years, one of the longest drinking windows in its peer group for the 2004 vintage, which averages 7 years Brand: We found this wine on 23 of the world's top restaurant wine lists, including The Kitchin Economics: Production: Lower production than its peer group average of 81,784 bottles

- www.wine-lister.com June 2017

Disgorged in 2013. Dosage 4.25 g/l. Pesky duplicate. Tasted blind. Sweet and almost sugary on the nose. Chewy and not that integrated. Loose textured. Bitter-orange flavour. (JR)