One of the superstars of the tasting, this is fresh and youthful, balancing the generous body and ripeness of the vintage with a tense, chalk-driven structure. It’s exceptionally long and assertively fragrant on the finish, infused by that chalky minerality and yet it still feels closed, not yet expressing all it has to give. Put it in the cellar for another decade at least. Disgorged: March 2018. Drinking Window: 2024 - 2054
Tasted by: Peter Liem (at Malmö, Sweden, 12 Dec 2023)
Part of Philipponnat: An 'astounding' Clos des Goisses 1978-2014 vertical

One of the superstars of the tasting, this is fresh and youthful, balancing the generous body and ripeness of the vintage with a tense, chalk-driven structure. It’s exceptionally long and assertively fragrant on the finish, infused by that chalky minerality and yet it still feels closed, not yet expressing all it has to give. Put it in the cellar for another decade at least. Disgorged: March 2018.

Philipponnat’s 2009 Clos des Goisses, disgorged in March 2022 with a dosage of 4.5 grams per liter, stands out as one of the most successful releases in recent memory. It opens with a deep bouquet of ripe pear, peach and early-blooming white flowers, mingling with nuances of red berry fruit. On the palate, it is full-bodied, profound and textural, supported by a racy spine of acidity and culminating in a long, sapid finish. While 2009 may have once seemed a warm, solar vintage, it no longer appears that extreme when considered alongside the increasingly warm years Champagne has experienced in more recent times. Reaching 12.8% alcohol, the wine exhibits a more elegant and harmonious profile compared to the drier, warmer 2015 and the riper, slightly more precocious 2012. The blend consists of 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay, with approximately 37% of the wine vinified in oak.

The 2009 Clos des Goisses has been very tight in two recent tastings, which is probably a very good thing for its long-term prospects, but less so for readers seeking the immediacy that is common in so many 2009 Champagnes. White flowers, orchard fruit, mint white pepper and citrus peel add to the wine’s bright profile. Readers should plan on being extremely patient, as the 2009 Goisses does not show much, if any, early appeal, even if the density and textural persistence of the great years are both there. The 2009 is 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: March, 2018. July 2019

Extraordinary power and fruit focus is the overwhelming first impression from this stunning Champagne. Peach, ripe apple, honey and fresh croissants leap from the glass, immediately creating the desire to get some into your mouth. The palate is typically succulent and smooth, with great finesse and texture. The ample weight of intense fruit is balanced by a spicy, almond and olive-skin note and a real sense of freshness and energy. There is so much matter here, it positively clings to the mouth, leaving a lasting mineral character as the fruit eventually fades. This is utterly delicious now but such is the balance that it will live for decades.

The 2009 Extra Brut Clos des Goisses is showing brilliantly, unfurling in the glass with aromas of warm bread, fresh peach, ripe citrus fruit, lemon confit and fresh pastry. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and layered, with a textural attack that segues into a muscular, tight-knit core that's multidimensional and intensely mineral, concluding with a long finish. Only 20,000 bottles were produced—in other words, half the legal yield. This is a serious, structured Clos des Goisses that transcends the vintage's tendency to facility, and it will merit and reward extended bottle age. WK Aug 2019

This sumptuous Clos des Goisses is so, so fruity. On the nose the overt and exotic appley and peachy fruitiness is complemented by a stylish savoury note with perky spicy nuances and sweet pastry complexity. The palate is caressingly soft with the finest, gentle and perfectly integrated mousse. There is genuine charm here already now but it is built to last, with round, full, fruity power carrying the generous palate.

See score and full tasting note at champagneclub.com.

The flavors of cassis, candied lemon zest, anise and toast point show lovely juiciness in this vibrant Champagne, with pleasing delicacy to the finely knit mousse, crisp acidity and chalk-tinged finish. Elegant. Disgorged March 2018. Drink now through 2029. 1,650 cases made, 133 cases imported. AN Dec 2019

Super complex and rich, this smells regal with toasted brioche and praline, as well as preserved-lemon, fresh-fig and biscuity notes. The palate is full and round with a chalky core that delivers a long, dry and powerful finish. Drink or hold. Sept 2019