See score and full tasting note at champagneclub.com.

Philipponnat’s 1996 Clos des Goisses L.V., disgorged in March 2022 with the house’s customary dosage of 4.5 grams per liter, underwent vinification equally in stainless steel and large oak foudres (25 hectoliters). While among the leanest renditions of Clos des Goisses, it remains more generous and expansive than many other expressions of the 1996 vintage, shaped by its warm, south-facing site. The bouquet bursts from the glass with aromas evocative of peeled almonds and roasted cacao beans, mingling with notes of lemon confit, oyster juice and salted nuts. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, chiseled and vinous, driven by the electric acidity characteristic of the vintage and concluding with a saline and lemon-laced finish. While it doesn’t quite achieve the harmony of the 2008 Clos des Goisses—another relatively high-acid year—the wine remains compelling, though its aromatic range feels slightly out of sync with its linear palate. Charles Philipponnat notes that the harvest began on September 14th.

Next to the equilibrium of the 1995, the 1996 Clos des Goisses exhibits more of the extremities of the year's harvest, as well as showing more evolution. There are notes of cooked lime, sherbet, dried apple and pear, and an intriguing counterbalance of taut acids and leesy and lactic weight. It's a mature Goisses, but slightly misses out, on this showing, on a full-voiced expression of this great vineyard.

Released 21 September 2021. Disgorged March 2021. A 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Base wine fermented in foudre or concrete (no barrels). The last vintage in which the wine aged under cork – before they switched to crown cap in order to have better control over oxygen ingress. Potential alcohol at harvest was > 9% in Clos de Goisses, which was higher than in many other vineyards that year. LV stands for long vieillissement (long ageing). 1996 is more golden in colour and aroma compared with the 2012 Clos des Goisses just tasted, more yeasty but still seems quite youthful considering how long it has been on the lees (24 years!). Acidity is high, as you would expect from this vintage, but does not stick out and there's a delicious orange vibrancy as part of that acidity. Honeyed brioche, nougat and clementine flavours, a little bit woody. A hint of cocoa powder, becoming extremely complex with a touch of coffee and honeyed herbal notes. Deep, intense apricot flavour and citrus freshness at the core and on the long finish. A brilliant match with red mullet. (JH)

Only small amounts of this vintage has been made available before now, so this is really an extremely special release from one of the last Champagne houses to be run by a member of its founding family. Now 25 years post harvest, this was a high acidity vintage, meaning it was always clear that it would age well, but also clear that Clos des Goisses benefitted more than ever from its south-facing slopes that allowed the Pinot to get beautifully structured and ripe to balance the acidity. Rich and nuanced in colour, golden amber, with evident body and powerful flavours of quince, tobacco, campfire smoke. A brilliant interplay between tertiary truffle and patisserie notes with elderflower, white peaches and lemongrass coming in halfway through to add lift. Precise and delicate bubbles, clear persistency, with a bitter almond finish. The house vintages are all aged in the traditional 18C cellars, riddled by hand. Very low dosage at 4.5 g/l - making it an Extra Brut (as are all the Philipponnat Champagnes). Bottled 1997, disgorged March 2021 (and just 600 bottles, going up to perhaps 900 maximum, for worldwide distribution). Would benefit from a short carafe before drinking, but the main priority here is to clear your schedule and enjoy.