Aromas here span a rich mix of smoke, truffle, lime peel, and buttered toast. Overall, the nose is still very fresh, almost primary. The acidity is still lively, and the wine is nervy and fresh, but beginning to open up and show more richness. Great finish. This wine will age for literally decades to come – a true classic. Disgorged January 2000. Dosage 5g/L.

Multidimensional nose of lemon, apple, minerals, nut skin, mushroom, honey, toffee and coffee. Tiny bubbles. Powerful, rich and solid as a rock, with strong mineral underpinning. Great concentration and structure. Finishes with almost painful intensity and remarkable persistence. Extremely expressive on the nose, but still evolving in the middle palate and likely to be long-lived.

On opening, the 1988 Champagne Salon pours a deep golden color with a lightly hazy appearance. The nose reveals notes of praline, dried apricot, saline broth, orange rind, and dried porcini. The palate is full-bodied, with broader shoulders, but it comes into focus on the finish and has a surprisingly refreshing mousse that doesn’t dissipate. This bottle was fully mature and past its prime, but it was certainly a pleasure to visit. Drink now.

Disgorged 2010 with 5-6 g/l dosage. Pale gold. Very hard to describe this aroma. A little honeyed and bready but also with a more oxidative butterscotch quality without the sweetness that suggests. So vibrant on the palate, a little hint of ginger and bitter orange. Fabulous balance between intense and refined purity and then that depth and length, very very long. (JH)