The NV Ambonnay Le Bout du Clos, from two south-facing plots within the same lieu-dit in Ambonnay, is composed of approximately 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay, which are picked and pressed together following strict selection. Informed by its brown, sticky clay soil, structurally reminiscent of Les Amoureuses in Chambolle-Musigny, and disgorged in February 2024 with 1.5 grams per liter dosage, it offers aromas of dried flowers, smoke, Asian pear, orange zest and spices. Powerful yet precise, it is a harmonious and multidimensional wine with a rich core of fruit underpinned by vibrant acidity. Featuring a fine mousse and concluding with a long, saline finish, it is a superb expression from the village. Like the other lieu-dit bottlings this year, it is based on the 2017 vintage and complemented by a perpetual reserve component that, for Le Bout du Clos, dates back to 2002.

Aromas of buttery pasty, orange oil, pear and sweet spices introduce the NV Extra-Brut Grand Cru Le Bout du Clos, disgorged early this year and based on the 2016 vintage. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and enveloping, it's suave and seamless, with a generous core of fruit, a pretty pinpoint mousse and a long, saline finish.

The NV Extra-Brut Grand Cru Le Bout du Clos is all about power, depth and pure structure. The weight and gravitas of Ambonnay comes through beautifully in this intense, layered Champagne. Hard candy, wild flowers, mint and spice are some of the many notes that take shape in the glass. The current release is a blend of vintages 2004 and 2005, two years that are very much complimentary in nature. I drank several bottles of the Bout du Clos during a recent trip in Italy, and was never let down. This is a gorgeous showing. Today the Bout du Clos has an implosive, huge minerality that keeps the wine from being fully expressive, but in another few years, the wine should start to be even better than it is today. Disgorgement date: April 13, 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. Despite all of the acclaim and recognition Anselme Selosse has received over the years, he continues to push the envelope of what Champagne is and can be. The new lieu-dit Champagnes, which now encompass six different bottlings – all of them multi-vintage blends – are off the charts, but frankly, so are the rest of the wines. Readers who want to learn more about Selosse might want to take a look at my recent videos on our site. Selosse fans might also want to consider a stay at Les Avizes, the hotel Anselme Selosse and his wife Corinne recently opened in Avize, which is probably the best way to visit this iconic producer. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484