The latest release of the NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Initial, a cuvée that derives from the bottom part of the slopes mostly in Avize, Cramant and a bit of Oger, is based on the 2018 vintage with some 35% reserve wines from 2017 and 2016 and disgorged in June 2024 with two grams per liter dosage. Its relative generosity is informed by the mostly south-facing vines (with a minority facing east), and the topsoil here is less rich in clay and with more fragmented chalk bedrock compared to the higher-altitude parcels that produce Version Originale. Soaring from the glass with aromas of tangerine, beeswax and pear, it’s ample and demonstrative, balanced with vibrant acidity and chalky structuring extract bringing freshness to its rich core of fruit. When the tasting begins with such quality, there is no question you’re in the presence of genius.

Disgorged in May 2021, the latest rendition of Selosse's NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Initial is showing beautifully, unwinding in the glass with aromas of pear, dried fruits, confit lemon, fenugreek, fresh bread and toasted almonds. Full-bodied, vinous and complex, it's a rich, fleshy Champagne that's underpinned by bright acids and complemented by a pinpoint mousse, concluding with a long, sapid finish. As usual, this bottling derives from the lower-altitude slopes of Avize, Cramant and Oger, where the soils are richer in clay and yields are higher when compared with the vineyards that inform V. O.

The NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Initial presents an intriguing melange of slate, crushed rocks, lemon, white flowers and ash. An utterly vivid, kaleidoscope of aromas and flavors follow as this crystalline, utterly pure wine comes alive in the glass. As is often the case, the Initial stands out for its focus, vibrancy and tension. The Initial is the freshest of the Selosse wines and is therefore a great introduction to the house style. This release is a blend of vintages 2005, 2006 and 2007, from the villages of Avize, Cramant and Oger. Disgorgement date: April 24, 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Despite all of the acclaim and recognition Anselme Selosse has received over the years, he continues to push the envelope of what Champagne is and can be. The new lieu-dit Champagnes, which now encompass six different bottlings – all of them multi-vintage blends – are off the charts, but frankly, so are the rest of the wines. Readers who want to learn more about Selosse might want to take a look at my recent videos on our site. Selosse fans might also want to consider a stay at Les Avizes, the hotel Anselme Selosse and his wife Corinne recently opened in Avize, which is probably the best way to visit this iconic producer. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

Anselme Selosse's NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Initial is a pure Chardonnay sourced in the lower, more clayey slopes of the villages of Avize, Cramant and Oger. This release of the cuvée represents the 2009, 2010 and 2011 vintages, and it opens with an intense, perfectly ripe, tropical-scented bouquet with chalky notes. Ripe, round and very elegant on the palate, this is an expressive, chalky and persistent Blanc de Blancs that was disgorged in December 2017 (dosage: less than 6 grams per liter). Tasted at the domaine in April 2018.

The chalk soil is much more like the albariza in Jerez than like the limestone of Burgundy, says Anselme Selosse. Dosage 1.6 g/l. Disgorged July. Deep and intense on the nose and has a lovely rich spice with hints of ginger and dried grasses. A touch of apple and yeasty richness. So intense and full flavoured. Powerful and long. Rich and rounded and hard to believe the dosage is so low. (JH)

Blend of Avize, Cramant and Oger. 100% Chardonnay. Three consecutive years 2011–2013. 5 years on lees approximately. Wild yeasts. Dosage 5g/l. Deep golden straw. Very distinctively savoury on the nose – broad like a bold (not modern and austere) white burgundy. Hits the very back of the palate with umami and Marmite. Real weight and real length to this. Tastes bone dry but not painful. (JR)