From another early, low-acid vintage, the golden shining, botrytis-free 2003 Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux Première Trie shows a beautifully intense, extraordinary clear, refined and elegant bouquet of ripe fruits intertwined with mineral flavors –– fascinating! Sweet, intense and delicate on the palate, this highly elegant and lovely concentrated Chenin is of great purity, balance and finesse. Its length is impressive, its generous flow is extremely sensual and its overall intensity and accessible generosity are absolutely gorgeous. This 2003 is great today, but will probably even more fascinating in 50+ years. The balance and drinkability is superb. Highly recommended.

There’s some sense that 2003 and 2018 are similar, and this might offer a window into how 2018 will evolve. If that’s the case, there’s some great potential. Nose of tea, spice, and pepper, with melon, tropical fruit, and baked pear on the palate. Thicker, richer, and ever slightly less elegant than 2002, but still a sexy wine. 64 grams per liter residual sugar.

This is the first year that the Hwang family owned Huet. The 2003 Le Haut Lieu Moelleux Premiere Trie is rich and full, round and succulent with toasty and honeyed aromas, tangy citrus, almond and Indian spice. Concentrated, dense but never heavy. Light and gentle. Since this wine is from the warm 2003 vintage, the acidity is lower and pH higher, so it doesn't have the freshness of other vintages. Drinking well now.