The Chaupin is slightly eclipsed by the profound quality of the 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes. Inky/blue/purple, with massive aromatics, an unctuous texture, and superb length on the palate, it is enormously endowed for a 2006. Very pure for a 2006, with sweet tannins as well as amazing length, it will benefit from several years of cellaring, and drink well for 20-25 years.

Fresh and tight still, with good aromatic precision, a little black pepper spice hiding among the fresh plum and blackberry. Good sense of minerality and intensity. Vibrant, only just opening up now - I would keep for a little while yet. The Syrah was picked on the 13th September, the Grenache on the 20th September, and picking finished entirely on the 28th. Also contains some Clairette Rose, Cinsault and Counoise.

A bigger, richer wine than the Chaupin (which is normal), the 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vieilles Vignes comes from the La Janasse and La Crau lieux-dits, and is 80% Grenache and the balance Syrah and Mourvèdre; the Grenache is raised in foudres and demi-muids, and the Syrah and Mourvèdre are raised in small barrels. Full-bodied, rich, decadent and unctuous on the palate, this beauty gives up fabulous notes of dark fruits, dusty soil, licorice, roasted herbs and toasted spice. It needs a short decant if drinking anytime soon, and will continue drinking nicely through 2026.

The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes (88% Grenache, 7% Mourvedre, and 5% Syrah, with only 5,000 bottles produced) is one of the vintage’s most profound wines. Inky ruby/purple to the rim, with a nose of incense, melted licorice, asphalt, blackberry, and blueberry with a hint of pain grille, the wine is exceptionally powerful, rich, concentrated, and harmonious, with high but sweet tannins, low acidity, and a spectacular finish of close to 50+ seconds. It is much more approachable than the 2005, but give it 4-5 years of bottle age and drink it over the following 25 years. The 2006 will undeniably be a vintage to buy across the board at Domaine de la Janasse. Tasting at Janasse is fun. It is a large estate of 195 acres with 45 of them situated in Chateauneuf du Pape. Even if you weren’t obsessed with their fabulous Chateauneuf du Papes, they have a portfolio of brilliant wines from Cotes du Rhone as well as a vin de pays. Young proprietor Christophe Sabon, working with his wife and father, continues to fine-tune his winemaking skills. He is already brilliant at reds and shows increasing confidence in the quality of his white wine cuvees. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

(80% grenache and 10% each of syrah and mourvedre) Opaque purple. Highly alluring, expansive bouquet of blueberry, boysenberry, licorice and smoky Indian spices. Broad, sweet and inviting on the palate, offering weighty dark berry compote flavors and complicating notes of truffle, anise and candied lavender. The spiciness repeats strongly on the finish, which is sappy and wonderfully long. These vines are between 80 and 100 years of age.

Dried herbs and concentration. Leather, tar but lots of sweetness too – and then a slightly fast fade. Well constructed but not 100% dead cert Châteauneuf if tasted blind, I feel. Very juicy. Some barrique, some foudre. (JR)