Also brilliant, the 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reserve is full-bodied and concentrated, with classic Pegau wildness, beef blood, saddle leather and garrigue all emerging from the glass. Slightly lighter in color and weight when compared to the 2003, it’s showing some maturity and can be consumed anytime, but will without a doubt continue to evolve gracefully for another decade or more. Created in 1987 (although there were some earlier bottling released) Domaine du Pegau is run today by the father/daughter team of Paul and Laurence Feraud. When setting up this retrospective, I was shocked when Laurence Feraud told me she had never done a vertical tasting like this. While I know they drink their older cuvees often, I think the idea of opening so many wines for one tasting could be seen as wasteful, and in reality, it is. However, it’s also incredibly educational, and as Laurence commented, shows the story of the domaine. I was thrilled to take part in this tasting, which also included Laurence’s parents, Paul and Odette. Importers: Dan Kravitz, Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; tel. (540) 347-9400

The 2001 Pegau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Reservée (magnum) was by far the most reticent and shut down bottle in this flight. Clearly a wine of tremendous potential, it needs time – and lots of it. Hints of smoke, leather, licorice and black olives lingered on the deep, powerful finish.

The 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee is a prodigious effort. The dark plum/ruby/garnet color is followed by a spectacular smorgasbord of aromas, including roasted meats, lavender, ground pepper, and thick, sweet blackberry and brandy-macerated cherries. Full-bodied, dense, and chewy, it has high levels of tannin, a huge finish, and a monster upside. Although less voluptuous than the 2000, the 2001 looks to be potentially the longest-lived and finest Cuvee Reservee since the wonderful duo of 1989 and 1990, both of which are aging splendidly. Anticipated maturity: now-2020.

Saturated deep red. Superripe, utterly captivating aromas of raspberry liqueur, leather, chocolate, coffee bean, pepper, garrique, black olive and licorice. Huge and voluminous, with superripe, palate-saturating flavors of candied, liqueur-like red fruits, game, pepper and wild herbs, with a complicating saline quality. Exotic and larger than life. Wonderfully fat and full on the sweet, lush aftertaste. Perhaps a bit less tarry and more fruit-driven than the 2000. This will fill your entire mouth and then some.