The still tannic, structured and firm 2005 Gigondas, even now at 10, needs further cellaring. Graphite, crushed rock, black fruits and smoked herbs all emerge from this medium to full-bodied, tight, yet concentrated and masculine-styled Gigondas that has impressive purity and length. I continue to believe in this wine, and think it needs another 2-3 years of cellaring, but it's certainly taking its time to come around.

The 2005 Gigondas Tradition is slightly more austere, tannic, and dusty. It is concentrated, elegant, and very much in the Yves Gras style of winemaking, but it doesn’t have nearly the charm and finesse of the 2006. But as Gras says, 2005 gave the vignerons some of the highest acid levels they have ever seen. This wine needs 2-3 years of cellaring and should keep for 10-15.

Saturated ruby. Very ripe, powerful blackberry and cassis aromas verging on jammy. Thick, sweet and deep, with superripe flavors of dark fruit liqueur and round, pliant tannins. Fans of outsized wines will prize this more than I, but it's undeniably impressive.

Super ripe, burnt flavours on the nose. Very dry and drying on the finish – not quite enough succulence for me on the mid palate. May well get there but it's awfully stark at the moment – quite an assault on the palate! NB this wine had not yet gone through malolactic. (JR)