From Syrah, Grenache, and Carignan in a mixture of gneiss, schist, and chalk, and vinified half each in tank and barrel (demi-muids as well as barriques), the 2012 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Latour de France Occultum Lapidem was bottled already in April – a month earlier than usual – and shortly before I tasted it, after having been assembled in tank already in January. Ripe, tart-edged and pit-inflected cherry and black raspberry with the crunch of its seed are prominent in the juicy and invigorating performance of this finely-grained cuvee, with pleasantly bitter hints of red chard and nibbles of black pepper adding to the stimulation of a long finish that seems stone-lined and teetering on the edge of dark mystery. The paradoxical sense of brightness and sinister depth of flavor here reminds me of certain fine red Burgundies, and with alcohol of only 14% this is certainly not in the least heavy-laden let alone hot or harsh. I suspect there will be yet more for which to praise it in a few years and that it will prove worth following through 2025. Drink: 2014-2025.
91 points – David Schildknecht (eRobertParker.com, Jan 2014)