Great interplay between delicate exotic-fruit aromas and cool, northerly elements (also apples and fresh herbs) in the nose and on the medium-bodied, concentrated palate, the acidity very bright and stony and driving the very long, whiplash finish. There is some natural grape sweetness in there, but you barely notice it. Drink or hold. Stuart Pigott

The 2019 Graacher Himmelreich Spätlese is coolish and flinty on the slate-dominated nose that reveals an intense but herbal and terroir-driven bouquet. Sweet and finessed on the palate, this is a crystalline, elegant and salty-piquant Spätlese with a still astringently mineral finish. Tasted at the domain in September 2020. 2021-2045. SR