Picked at 245° Oechsle and bottled with 430 grams per liter of unfermented sugar and a vibrant freshness, the golden-colored 2018 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Trockenbeerenauslese is super intense and concentrated but clear on the nose, with flinty slate aromas and remarkable finesse and precision. The palate is generous and concentrated, very aromatic as well as firm, fresh and precise, with a tight structure and persistent freshness and finesse. The finish is vital, tight and dense and indicates unreal aging potential. 400 liters produced. SR

Peach and mirabelle jam dominate on the nose, joining brown sugar and caramel in a ridiculously viscous inner-mouth display. Just as with this year’s Turmberg TBA, this concentrate comes off as too embryonic – or else too high in sheer desiccated berry concentration – to adequately assess where it’s headed; and the citric and mineral elements that helped render the corresponding gold capsule BA so memorable aren’t present here. But this concentrate’s purity, along with its sheer penetrant persistence, is remarkable, and the mouth is left tingling, with less of the stickiness that accrued to the Turmberg TBA. Time – but possibly only a lot of it – will bring a clearer picture and permit judgment as to just how great a monument to its vintage, site and producer we have here. DS

A gently spicy thread here with all manner of fresh fruit that’s just so ripe. This offers very intense mangoes and apricots with peach essence and gentle candied kumquat. The palate is like a perfect sphere of flavor, completely seamless. This is melded together by an extraordinary vintage and delivered to the greatest heights of sweetness and balance. Really a perfect wine. Drink over decades. Stuart Pigott