For Francesco Valentini, 2012 was one of the best vintages in recent years and he regards this wine as the most balanced Montepulciano he has made since his father’s death. Opaque, complex and mineral, woodsmoke notes unfold gently on the nose with a hint of toast and coffee. It is concentrated but with a wonderful weightless, featherlight texture, accompanied by very fine tannins. This is still young but just starting to open up, and shows great potential.

Light orange-yellow. Forward but racy aromas of tangerine, ginger, white flowers, sweet spices and medicinal herbs on the complex nose. Rich and round, but with lovely acid lift and energy to the concentrated flavors of apricot, pear and botanical herbs. Finishes long and pure. Not the most concentrated young Trebbiano d’Abruzzo from Valentini, but has a rich, ripe seamless personality that is hard to resist. Good to go right now but ought to age for 15 years at least. Really lovely wine.

A vibrant golden yellow color in the glass. The 2012 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo opens with mineral-tinged peaches and pears in an air of dusty dried flowers. This is elegance personified with hints of custard and butter toffee up front, enlivened by a core of intense minerality and citrus as ripe apple tones cascade across the palate. The 2012 lingers incredibly long and potent with a pleasant inner sweetness and honeyed florals that linger on. While from a warm vintage, the 2012 has an energy to it that can’t be denied.

Pale yellow. Pungent and unspittable. Some veg as well as fruit. Tense and lively and with hints of celeriac. So interesting! Great stuff, So Italian! It has not fallen by the wayside, gloriously unique. Not that long but the aromas and structure (bite and acidity) are quite amazing for this part of the world. A real one-off. (JR)