The 2017 Barolo Monvigliero is such a classy wine. Light on its feet and beautifully perfumed, the Monvigliero is superb. The whole clusters are very nicely integrated. Rose petal, mint, sage and bright red berry fruit all run through this supremely gracious, deceptively mid-weight wine. It will almost certainly gain in volume over the coming year. As always, Monvigliero is done with 100% stems.

Fabio Alessandria is one of the most talented wine producers at present in Barolo. If Monvigliero is recognised for its particular elegance, the interpretation at GB Burlotto adds depth and consistency to it. The harvest, which in Monvigliero is rather early, 'has been brought forward almost one month in 2017,' according to Alessandria. 'We finished picking the Nebbiolo on 31 September.' In this vintage he preferred selected yeast over indigenous yeast due to the heat and the potential alcohol. He fermented the wine in Slavonian oak vessels without destemming and let the malolactic conversion occur spontaneously, still in oak. It has a crystalline purity on the nose of peony, orange peel and red berries, embellished with cinnamon and rhubarb flavoured boiled sweets. Fleshy and earthy strawberry flavours are joined by lavish, almost silky, tannins of great volume on the mid-palate, and lifted acidity that will keep it going strong for decades. Drinking Window: 2021 - 2040
Tasted by: Aldo Fiordelli (at Alba, Hotel I Castelli, 29 Mar 2021)
Part of Aldo Fiordelli: My top 10 fine wines of 2021

The aromas alone will stop you in your tracks thanks to a compelling combination of pressed rose, crushed mint, pine forest and a whiff of woodland berries. Full-bodied and elegantly structured, the firm, delicious palate delivers red cherry, pomegranate, licorice and salt alongside tightly wound, noble tannins. Drink 2025–2037. Kerin O'Keefe

The 2017 Barolo Movigliero is lifted and highly aromatic with sour cherry, wild medicinal herbs, eucalyptus, and fresh leather. The palate is energetic and long, with red plum, blood orange, dried mint, and building tannins. Hold for 3-6 years and drink 2025-2050. AF

The 2017 Barolo Monvigliero opens to a fine and light ruby color. This whole-cluster wine is elegant from all sides no matter how you approach it. To the bouquet, it offers smooth berry and spice, with lots of blue flower, dried lavender and lilac. A second aromatic layer centers on dry stone, limestone and some crushed white pepper. To the palate, it shows fine but tight tannins that are still nervous, like a closed fist. What I find most interesting about this warm-vintage expression from Monvigliero is that although the floral imprint is intact, the bouquet is broad enough to make room for spice, cherry and grilled herb. It feels like this bouquet operates on a bigger platform in 2017, but it requires patience nonetheless. Production is 7,500 bottles. ML

Perfumed, this red features rose, cherry and strawberry aromas shaded by sandalwood and five-spice powder. Bright, well-delineated and harmonious, with both structure and finesse. The aftertaste echoes floral and spice elements. Best from 2025 through 2042. 650 cases made. BS