Is Giacomo Conterno’s 2006 Barolo Cascina Francia a traditional or modern Barolo? Great question. Texturally, the 2006 boasts marvelous depth and a level of pure intensity not often seen in traditionally made wines, yet the aromatics, tannin and overall structure are all super classic. This is another austere, tannic Barolo best left alone.

More floral than a flower shop on the nose with a touch of fresh cut ripe berries. This is a big wine but still a touch reserved, with lots of sweet tannins. Fresh acidity rounds out the finish. Don't start thinking about this wine until 2016.

The 2006 Barolo Cascina Francia is a deep, muscular wine endowed with superb richness, inner perfume and structure. From cask this has always been an intense, inward Barolo and now that it is in bottle, those qualities seem even more prominent. Over time, the classic Cascina Francia bouquet of roses, tar, herbs and licorice comes forward, but only reluctantly. A massive wall of tannins prevents the fruit from emerging, but every now and then the wine shows hints of its ultimate potential. The finish alone is breathtakingly beautiful for its balance and inner sense of harmony. The 2006 is not as showy young as other recent great vintages such as 2001 or 2004, so I will not be surprised if it is overlooked, but it is a magnificent Barolo that only needs time, and lots of it. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2046. (Antonio Galloni)

Perfumed, this Barolo combines plum and berry with sandalwood and leather aromas and flavors. The sweetness stands up to the dense, refined tannins, leaving an aftertaste of spice and mineral. BS