The 2008 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is one of my favorite recent vintages. It is the product of an exceptionally long and cool growing year marked by a highly unusual cold snap at the very end of the season. Those conditions yielded a Monfortino that is pure silkiness and sensuality, with striking aromatic presence and exceptional balance. There is an exoticism to the 2008 that is impossible to miss, while the impression is of tannins that are virtually non-existent. The 2008 was such a complete wine right from the outset that Roberto Conterno decided to bottle it with six years in cask as opposed to the more typical seven.

This is one of the most balanced and harmonious Monfortinos that I ever tasted. Aromas of dried rose petals and oranges. It's full-bodied yet compacted and tight. Tannins are perfectly managed. It makes you want to drink it now with its balance and finesse. All in harmony. This is from one of the latest harvests ever – started October 29. So fabulous and so perfect now. Why wait? But will age for decades.

The 2008 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is pure excitement. The bouquet alone is alluring, but then the wine begins to open up on the palate, revealing extraordinary depth. An explosion of fruit follows as dark berries, mint, roses, incense and tar flesh out in all directions. Huge, powerful tannins frame an extraordinary finish. This is going to be a thrilling Monfortino to follow over the coming years and decades. Anticipated maturity: 2028-2048. (AG)

Good full medium red. Captivating aromas of raspberry, game, licorice and black olive show a liqueur-like decadence. Fat, lush and sweet; amazingly ripe and open-knit for a Monfortino still in barrel. Great texture and fruit complexity here. Finishes with outstanding broad, suave, fine-grained tannins and a burst of cherry liqueur. Conterno may bottle this wine next year, a little ahead of his normal schedule. I find it a bit more exotic than a sample I tasted two years ago.