The full-bodied 1988 Costa Russi reveals a purple tinge to its color, as well as a straightforward, rich nose of black fruits and new oak. At present it is more monolithic than the other single vineyard Barbarescos. All of Gaja's 1988 Barbarescos are backward, reserved wines. Even after sitting four days with the corks pulled they exhibited no signs of oxidation. While they should be uncommonly long-lived, I did not see quite the flesh and richness possessed by such vintages as 1985 and 1982. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY.

From The Purple Notebook – Italian Dinner at Gidleigh Park Burnt, tarry, opens out eventually. Rose petals on the nose. Lots of ripe fruit and acidity on the finish. Still lots of tannins on the finish but overall this is a flirtatious wine – and all the better for not having paid the doubtless steep price for it. (JR)