The 2004 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda (tasted from cask) reveals a compelling bouquet of violets, black cherries and spices, with a beautifully layered quality to the fruit and silky tannins. Today it comes across very much like the 1996 did at a similar stage. This will be a fascinating Barolo to follow. Brothers Franco and Roberto Massolino have a top-flight set of wines with their 2004 Barolos. The wines are fermented in cement, then undergo malolactic fermentation in a combination of cement and steel prior to being racked into large Slavonian oak casks for roughly two and half years. The Parafada is the only Barolo that sees French oak. Readers who want to learn more about the estate can re-visit my recent feature on www.erobertparker.com. mporter: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2004 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda reveals superb complexity and nuance in a never-ending display of aromas and flavors that saturate the palate. Tobacco, truffles, spices, licorice and dark fruit swirl around in the glass as the wine continues to gain volume and depth with air. The tannins are massive yet beautifully balanced and the stage seems set for the 2004 to develop into one of the finest Vigna Riondas crafted here. Constantly changing in the glass, the wine captures that characteristic Rionda elusiveness that invites a second taste and then a third. In sum, it is a Barolo that will provide endless fascination for many years to come. Incredibly, it tastes almost as youthful as it did from barrel a few years ago! Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031.