Full red. Superripe, almost roasted nose hints at beefsteak tomato. Plush and thick; improbably classy and delineated in light of its impressive opulence. A wine of compelling sweetness that will rely more on its huge, mouthcoating tannins than on its acidity for its ability to evolve in bottle.

The 2000 Barbaresco Valeirano, from a vineyard in Treiso, is normally muscular, and this is the case in 2001 as well. The color is deep, the nose has absorbed its oak completely, and the heft and concentration are at a high level. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2017. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411