Structure and pure power are the signatures of the 2006 Barolo Rocche. This imposing Barolo is likely to take quite a bit of time to fully come together, but it is impressive tonight just the same. The wine’s explosive, vertical structure is the stuff dreams are made of. What a wine! May 2016

The 2006 Barolo Rocche shows incredible definition in detail in its perfumed, floral personality. The 2006 is not as explosive as the 2004 was at this stage, but it is eerily reminiscent of the 1989 in its sweet, Pinot-like fruit. With time in the glass, the fruit gains even more clarity while the bouquet blossoms with incredible grace, all supported by ultra-fine, silky tannins. Today the Rocche is soft and relatively accessible, but it is sure to firm up in bottle. In 2006 the Rocche saw 30 days of maceration on the skins and was aged predominantly in cask with a brief spell in French oak in between for the malolactic fermentation, a blend of traditional and modern approaches that has yielded phenomenal results here. Of course, everything starts in the vineyard, and Vietti’s commitment to low yields means that they are among the first growers to harvest in most vintages. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. (Antonio Galloni)

Good deep red. Classic perfumed Barolo nose combines redcurrant, cherry, dried flowers and brown spices, with a brooding medicinal element adding complexity. Then deep, chewy and sweet, showing an utterly seamless, silky texture and captivating minerality. This has the suavity of texture of a grand cru, and even more flesh to buffer its round tannins than the 2005 bottling. The whiplash of a finish is like a second-stage booster rocket. This one really calls for, and will reward, extended cellaring. (Incidentally, my early look at the 2007 version suggests that this vintage will be in the same quality league as the 2006 and 2005, as this wine showed an ineffable orange peel note and terrific length and perfume. The 2007 Masseria and Lazzarito were also early standouts. "Two thousand one is my dream vintage," says Currado, "but 2007 may be as good.")