Altesino's 2010 Brunello di Montalcino is fresh, lively and very nicely balanced throughout. Sweet red berries, mint, sage and cinnamon lift from the glass. The 2010 is effortless and totally delicious today, although the flavors are quite fruit-driven. Readers who are looking for more complexity will want to age the 2010 for at least a few years, but it is already quite appealing, even at this early stage.

Wonderful decadent aromas of musk, orange peel and plum follow through to a full body, with soft tannins and a long and rich finish. Salty and savory. Layers of gorgeous fruit. Drink or hold.

Altesino's 2010 Brunello di Montalcino stands proud among its peers. No other wine I tasted among the new releases in Montalcino achieves this unique level of aromatic finesse and distinction. The bouquet is almost purely floral in character with a strong emphasis on pressed rose petal, dried violets and potpourri. The fruit tones are less emphatic and include bright cherry and red currant. In the mouth, the wine's compressed texture is accented by fennel seed and licorice. the 2009 vintage had more power and heat, but this version shows elegant restraint. (Monica Larner)