A full-bodied, structured red with smoke, tar and grilled mushrooms on the nose. Some bitter berries to go with the earthy mushrooms. Chewy tannins and a long, savory finish. Lots of citrus. Drink from 2023.

The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino from Gianni Brunelli didn’t leave much room for improvement; yet somehow the Riserva manages to take things to a whole new level. The bouquet alone is absolutely stunning, as you could sit with this glass for an hour and never grow tired of taking in its mix of sweet wild herbs, dusty florals and bright cherry fruit. Sage, lavender, spiced orange and flowery undergrowth complete this already-dazzling expression. It’s deep and silky, verging on fleshy but not quite, as a tactile mix of acids, minerals and fine tannin settle in. That said, while the 2015 Riserva is classically structured and dry, it prioritizes purity of fruit above all else, seeming to hover upon the senses and never grow tiring. Fans of Gianni Brunelli will be very happy to have a few of these resting in the cellar. The Riserva is typically made from a higher percentage of fruit from the Olmo vineyard at Podernovone in the south balanced out by a parcel from Le Chiuse in the north, which adds freshness. It then spends up to forty months in a combination of twenty-five to thirty-hectoliter barrels.

The Gianni Brunelli Le Chiuse di Sotto 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is another beauty from this bijoux estate. This wine offers texture and depth, but it does not have the same level of luminosity or brightness that we got in the 2016 Brunello. It shows some charred aromas with spice and ripe fruit, with wide and large ambition. I got a touch of Graham cracker and brown sugar, followed by spice and ripe fruit. This is a long and generous wine, with soft fruit and texture on the long finish. ML