Dark red cherry, smoke, plum, wild flowers and cedar are some of the notes that flesh out in the 2010 Brunello di Montalcino from Castelgiocondo. Ripe, soft and textured on the palate, the 2010 impresses for its silkiness and early approachability. Sweet floral and spiced notes reappear on the finish, adding considerable lift and perfume. This is a lovely showing from Castelgiocondo and the Frescobaldi family.

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino ushers forth a new stylistic chapter in the wines of Marchesi de' Frescobaldi. Gone are those overt oak notes of cinnamon, dark chocolate and moist chewing tobacco. Instead, this fresh and streamlined wine renews its effort to put Sangiovese in prime positioning. The bouquet shows dark cherry, ginger and grilled herb. Instead of immediacy, this wine is engineered for longevity and that comes as a surprise considering that Castelgiocondo has historically been one of the biggest advocates of what is now dubbed "international" Brunello. With the 2010 vintage, this estate goes back to its traditional roots. The wine is young now and needs about five more years to complete its cellar evolution. (Monica Larner)

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva offers hints of the thicker extraction and international style that brought so much success to the Frescobaldi wine dynasty over the years. More recently, the wine has been considerably reeled back in terms of exuberance and exaggerated intensity. Like many other Brunellos from the "international" side of the style spectrum, this new increasingly streamlined approach is a sign of the times. Castelgiocondo's Riserva offers a very generous bouquet with loads of ripe fruit and spice. In the mouth, it shows great focus and a bright vein of acidity that adds enormous vitality.

Deep ruby with narrow orange rim. A nose bursting with fruit cake, baking spice and sour cherry. Not overtly sweet though, but the fruit seems a little overripe while the almost tart acidity manages to add energy. Slightly astringent and tart on the finish, but will improve with a little age. Just not the most complex or refined. (WS)