The 2016 Bolgheri Superiore Grattamacco is a subtle and elegant wine with decisive energy and forward momentum. The blend is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot and Sangiovese, and the fruit is sourced from across the best sites in the estate's various vineyard holdings. The bouquet opens to delicate berry and wild cherry and then moves over to warmer Mediterranean tones of rosemary, pressed flower and gardening soil. To the palate, the wine shows depth and medium consistency that prizes smoothness, texture and length. Elegance is the big takeaway.

The usual blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Sangiovese. A vintage for the patient and the first I tasted with a portion of grapes from the Casa Vecchia vineyard, which was not organic initially but the wine now has organic certification now on the back label . The season started off fairly dry, nor were temperatures ever very severe, conditions that encouraged budbreak and an early flowering. May and June delivered little rainfall, and temperatures were significantly above the average, particularly in the latter third of the month and the arrival of summer. To protect the clusters from the strong sunlight, leaf-pulling was not performed and canopy hedging was reduced to a minimum. July and August continued hot, with the exception of significant rainfall in late July, which allowed the grapes to reach ripeness in a sound, balanced state. A minimal amount of rain in late August encouraged the ripening process, particularly in the early-ripening varieties. Harvest started on 25 August and ended on 30 September. Rains in mid September brought relief to the Cabernet Sauvignon in the Casa Vecchia vineyard, extending its ripening period and thus improving both skins and seeds in the berries, as well as juice yield. The grapes picked in the last week of September exhibited better tannic texture and palate depth. The higher vineyards, at 200 metres, made a significant contribution, making it possible to obtain wines with quite firm structures and yet with significant approachability. ‘A year that proved itself rich and generous to those who had the courage and patience to wait for that full, sound ripeness that reveals itself here’, according to winemaker Luca Marrone. Two Piemontesinas employed in this vintage. Matured 18 months in oak barrels and bottled in October 2018. Deep garnet. Quite claret-like, tasting as though it is Cabernet-dominated, perhaps because of the Casa Vecchia ingredient with the tannin more obvious. Still quite chewy. Firm and lightly medicinal. Still part of the family with some richness but it’s nowhere near peak. (JR)