Crushed stone, wild herbs and tart black cherries lift up from the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Vigneti del Versante, but that’s only the beginning. With time, this blossoms further, gaining a sweeter fruit profile and autumnal spices with hints of shaved cedar. Its textures are remarkably refined and silky in feel, with an intense concentration of tart red fruits, yet energy is maintained through brilliant acidity, as grippy tannins build steadily toward the close. The Vigneti del Versante tapers off with amazing length, youthful poise and a balanced structure, promising many, many years of positive evolution. This is really something to behold. I tasted the 2016 from a freshly opened bottle and from one that had been opened for two days prior that showed no signs of decline; in fact, it blossomed further. Simply stunning. EG

Pouring from a heavy glass bottle, the organic and biodynamic Pian dell'Orino 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Vigneti del Versante is drinking beautifully right now. Released later than its peers, this Sangiovese showcases the power, precision and elegance of the iconic 2016 vintage. Yet the wine also offers enough distance from the harvest to enable additional complexity thanks to barrel and bottle aging. A dark garnet appearance sets the stage, and the bouquet follows in lockstep with pressed cherry, dark plum, spice, balsam herb and an unexpected interjection of freshly cut red rose. The wine's aromas are delivered with generous and transparent intensity. On the palate, Vigneti del Versante is rich and dense, offering silky tannins with crunch (something I always associate with the finest expressions of Sangiovese). There is a hint of salty mineral at the very end. Exactly 7,556 bottles exist. ML