Although still an infant, the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino has aged beautifully. Rose petal, bright red stone fruits and mint are some of the nuances that give the 2004 its lively, expressive personality. Silky tannins add considerable appeal today, but the 2004 also has more than enough depth to drink well for many years to come.

This remains one of my favorite vintages in Montalcino, and it was indeed an important breakout year for the appellation in general. By the time this wine was released, one-fourth of all Brunello di Montalcino was being sold in the United States alone. The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is a very firm and tightly knit expression. Those dark fruit tones of blackberry preserves and dried cherry are woven directly into a thicker patchwork of spice, leather and cured tobacco. Fruit comes from old vines at the Il Poggione estate. This was the first wine produced in the estate's new winery and a great percentage of new oak was used as a result. Now more than ten years after the harvest, those oak aromas have slowly morphed into perfumed rose and potpourri-like characteristics. This wine is drinking beautifully right now. ML

Good deep red. Sexy nose offers raspberry, spices, coconut, dried flowers, tobacco and potpourri: almost Lafite-like. Then suave, complex and energetic in the mouth, offering lovely vinosity to the sappy red fruit and floral flavors. Finishes long and vibrant, combining enticing sweetness and firm, saline grip. Really spreads out horizontally on the back.

Has blackberry and coffee bean, with a hint of cream on the nose. Full-bodied and tight, with slightly austere and chewy tannins, but there is pretty, ripe fruit underneath it all. Best after 2010. 16,665 cases made.