The 2004 Sammarco shows why this is such a magnificent vintage for Tuscany. Silky, layered and impeccably refined, the 2004 possesses notable breadth and richness, yet remains light on its feet. The flavors are bright, with a level of crystalline purity that is impossible to miss. Best of all, the 2004 continues to age gracefully. I imagine the 2004 will offer a wide drinking window of pure pleasure. The 2004 isn't one of the biggest or most imposing Sammarcos, but it is among the most finessed.

The 2004 Sammarco is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot and 5% Sangiovese. It exhibits a dark purplish color, along with a wonderfully fragrant nose of spices and violets. It is a rich, powerful effort packed with an array of blueberries, blackberries and grilled herbs, showing a layered personality and an imposing tannic structure that will require patience. This gorgeously pure wine should drink effortlessly to age 25. A recent bottle of the 1988 was still youthful and full of life. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029.

Shows very beautiful aromas of currant, raspberry and Indian spices. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a long, clean finish. A tiny bit austere, but should come along nicely with time. The best Sammarco since 1997. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese. Best after 2010. 1,945 cases made. (James Suckling)