This Gran Selezione enchants with heady scents of liquorice, allspice, mint blossom and jasmine. It is sumptuous and laden with concentrated raspberry, cherry skins and accents evocative of forest growth. There are no hard edges as dense layers of suede-like tannins meld seamlessly, and bright acidity keeps it buoyant. Still wrapped up with youthful intensity, this should unravel slowly to reveal greater depths and detail as it ages.

Released in numbered bottles, the organic Riecine 2021 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Gaiole Vigna Gittori shows rich concentration with tart plum and berry aromas over a mid-weight mouthfeel. The wine packs a powerful 15% alcohol content (as reported by the label), but you'd hardly know it in a taste test. It remains textured, rich in fruit but also balanced. The Sangiovese grape is presented with extra heft and richness in this vintage.

Gaiole. 100% Sangiovese. Certified organic. Healthy mid ruby. Cool, leafy cherry nose. Sappy, elegant raspberry and mulberry palate with fine, clayey tannins. Superb balance. (WS)