Blackberry jam, French oak, sweet spices and licorice inform San Filippo's 2010 Brunello di Montalcino. This is one of the darkest, inkiest Brunellos readers will come across in 2010. Sadly, there are very few vintage signatures in this Brunello, which tastes like it could have been made anywhere.

Extremely complex aromas of mushroom, stone, chalk, dark fruit and lightly dried bark or tea. Full-bodied, with powerful, layered tannins. Muscular and intense. It needs loads of time to soften: better in 2017.

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino is a dense and voluptuous expression with opulent fruit tones and equally intense oak nuances. The wine ages in botte grande for 26 months and the slow oxidation has done much to increase the aromatic intensity of the wine. Bold and chewy with thick lines, this wine also shows tight wood astringency that should soften, to a good extent, with time. There are sweet tones of baking spice and sweet cherry syrup on the close. The style is appropriate for lovers of big Brunello. (Monica Larner)