La Serena's 2008 Brunello di Montalcino explodes from the glass with a heady mélange of aromas and flavors. Mocha, espresso, licorice, plums and the blackest of cherries saturate the palate. A large-scaled, voluptuous Brunello, the 2008 could use another year or two in bottle to settle down a bit further. It should drink well for another handful of years. There is plenty of La Serena's typical boldness in the glass.

Good medium ruby-red. Redcurrant, licorice, graphite and violet on the perfumed nose. Juicy and plump, with lively acidity giving lift to the flavors of redcurrant, licorice and minerals. Finishes clean and long, with a note of underbrush and a firm tannic spine.

Impenetrably dark and mature-looking ruby. Richly fruity and dense, but not very Brunello. Very modern and very ripe. (WS)