The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Gemini opens with knock-out aromatics that lead to expressive layers of ripe red fruit, flowers, spices, licorice and tobacco. The balance of fruit, acidity and tannin is fabulous. Freshly cut roses, spices and licorice reappear to frame the finish. This is an exceptional, totally refined Brunello from Andrea Mantengoli. The Riserva was aged in a combination of casks and smaller French oak barriques.

(15% alcohol): Good dark red. Sexy high-toned perfume of cherry, ripe strawberry, dried rose, tobacco, leather and underbrush; the full monty of sangiovese. Superconcentrated, dense and suave, with terrific energy giving the red berry and saline mineral flavors a light touch. The very long, rising, firmly tannic finish saturates the mouth with perfume. Showed more mocha and oak with time in the recorked bottle, but this outstanding Brunello boasts buns of steel: wait 5 years, then enjoy it over the following 15.