Giancarlo Pacenti’s 2006 Brunello di Montalcino impressed for its balance, harmony and sense of proportion. The combination of fruit from Montalcino’s northern and southern districts yields a Brunello of incomparable finesse. A slight bit of dryness from the oak was a distraction.

Aromas of blackberries and blueberries follow through to a full body and velvety tannins. This is so layered and deep. Fabulous texture. Better in 2014. We will see in the end whether 2006 or 2007 is better. Try in 2016.

An iron streak runs through the middle of this firmly structured Brunello, leading to core flavors of black cherry, tobacco and wild herbs. This stays taut and racy through the finish, but needs time to soften its tannins. Best from 2013 through 2025. 2,500 cases made. (BS)

At this moment in its evolution, the 2006 Brunello di Montalcino is a little closed in terms of aromas. The wine shows restraint on the bouquet, but with a little coxing you can suss out notes of black fruit, plum, tar, licorice and spice. There's a petrol or resin-like note buried within. The tannins show full integration, now tasted 13 years later, but the fruity integrity and core of the wine is well-preserved, almost too well I would say at this point. It's sealed tight. Let's come back to this wine in another five to ten years. ML