The 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is dense, powerful and intense. At the same time, there is basically no trace of the unrelentingly hot weather that gave growers so many headaches. Hints of dried cherry, plum, mint, dried rose petal and savory herbs add nuance to the deep, resonant finish. This is one of the best bottles of the 2003 I have tasted yet.

Soldera’s 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is surprisingly supple and open at this stage. Texturally silky and refined, the 2003 Riserva shows wonderful balance, tons of class and a highly appealing personality. The 2003 Riserva is already somewhat forward in its aromas and flavors, though, which suggests it isn’t built for the long haul. I vastly prefer the 2002 Riserva here, as it shows more brilliant color, correspondingly fresher flavors and the potential for longevity I consider essential for a wine of this pedigree and price. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. AG