The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino PS has put on quite a bit of weight since I tasted it last year. The richly textured, vivid Brunello jumps from the glass with seamless layers of fruit. Impeccable and refined throughout, the wine offers extraordinary balance and elegance. Sweet mentholated notes add further complexity to the fruit, as the brunello di Montalcino PS gains a measure of volume and depth that carries through to the refined, silky finish.

Dusty and understated in the glass, the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino entices with a delicate blend of spiced citrus rinds, blackberries and hints of mint. It impresses most with its purely silken and enveloping textures, featuring mineral-tinged red and black fruits that take on a nervous citrusy energy toward the close. The finish reveals a bit of maturity with a suggestion of brown spice yet remains fresh as a bump of residual acidity cleanses the senses. If you have any questions about the ageability of Siro Pacenti's wines, take note.

Bright, deep red. Restrained but pure aromas of dark berries, flowers, licorice and curry powder; slightly reduced. Juicy, spicy and fresh in the mouth but youthfully tight, with lovely subtle perfume accentuated by minerality. Not especially dense but plenty intense, wonderfully vinous and light on its feet. Finishes very long and aromatic, with firm tannic spine: this really fills the olfactories! Very nicely avoids the warm side of the vintage.