Recognized by its elegant black label, the 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva Brolio is a selection of the best fruit from various vineyard sites that would otherwise go to the Chianti Classico Brolio. Merlot (15%) and a tiny part Cabernet Sauvignon are blended with Sangiovese. The 2010 vintage is surprisingly ripe with jammy notes of strawberry and raspberry. There’s a hint of raisin and prune as well, and the mouthfeel shows tangy sweetness. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2018. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co.; www.dreyfusashby.com

Mid, healthy ruby. Super-healthy Sangiovese nose with a twist of fresh acidity and bite on the end. Medium weight and no over-oaking. Very vigorous. Not bargain basement stuff but it buiilds nicely on the finish. Very mild and well mannered. (JR)