The 2010 Cervaro della Sala (90% Chardonnay/10% Grechetto) is seriously beautiful in this vintage. A large-scaled, voluptuous wine, the 2010 emerges from the glass with an exotic mélange of honey, tropical fruit, butter, lemon and sweet spices. Underlying veins of minerality frame the striking, oily finish. Although the 2010 is pretty today, I will not be surprised if the 2010 improves with further time in bottle.

A big and powerful white with layers of apple pie, minerals and hints of toasted oak. Full body, with a chalk, lemon rind and honey undertone. Chewy. Intense finish. Drink now or hold. Structured like a Burgundy.

The 2010 Cervaro della Sala (90% Chardonnay/10% Grechetto) is seriously beautiful in this vintage. A large-scaled, voluptuous wine, the 2010 emerges from the glass with an exotic melange of honey, tropical fruit, butter, lemon and sweet spices. Underlying veins of minerality frame the striking, oily finish. Although the 2010 is pretty today, I will not be surprised if the 2010 improves with further time in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. AG

Given the Antinori family’s rich heritage spanning 26 generations and a track record for making some of Italy’s most glamorous wines, it is easy to imagine that their Umbrian property, Castello della Sala, would be stately and elegant. Instead, the Castello reflects the values of an old-world, agrarian aristocracy that is more about tradition than flash. Those qualities come through in the wines as well. Over the last few years, the flagship Cervaro della Sala has become more elegant than ever, while the second wine, the Bramito del Cervo, is unfussy and beautiful. AG