The 2020 Rays Road Chardonnay is still largely made from fruit from the vines that were original in the vineyard; however, there were some new plantings coming online in this vintage. In majority, this is clone 95. So, on the nose, there is white peach, lemongrass, a hint of torched tatami mat, almond meal, croissant and pastry. It's really settled into itself now, after several years in bottle, and it's moving toward that gently nutty, silky space. "2019 was good from the start, but 2020 was like 'here, hold my beer, I'll show you how it's done,'" says Michael Brajkovich. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

In 2017, Kumeu River spread its wings to Hawke's Bay, purchasing Rays Road, a site on limestone at 180 meters in altitude. The 2020 Chardonnay Rays Road displays a fuller style, offering breadth and a smooth embrace. There are subtle aromatics – this is Chardonnay, after all – suggesting Golden Delicious apples meeting beeswax and shortbread, and modest concentration and length. The wine’s appeal is in its textural, mouth-coating finish.

From a limestone, north-facing, dry-farmed hillside at 180 m. Spontaneous fermentation. Aged in old French oak. Neat and well integrated, quite restrained. And already very accessible though with light, fine tannins and quite opulent fruit on the front palate. Sprightly. Lemon-pastille flavour. Very long. Beautifully made. (JR)