In a port tasting, tasting Graham's is almost like tasting a big, rich, succulent Merlot after a group of blockbuster, tannic Cabernets. Sweeter and more obvious than many ports, the opaque purple-colored 1994 is fruity, powerful, and rich, with an addictive hedonistic quality. It will be ready to drink in 8-10 years and keep for up to 30. As always, this is a showy, flamboyant port that has the advantage of being slightly sweeter than other 1994s. A great Graham's. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2035. Importer: Premium Ports and Madeiras, Sausalito, CA; tel. (415) 331-7656

The 1994 Vintage Port is going to be re-released. It has about 100 grams per liter of residual sugar. With a big eucalyptus note up front, this is elegant in the mid-palate with controlled tannins. Sweet and easy in some ways, this is readily approachable now, perhaps not at peak, but more expressive than the relatively brooding Dow's, also reviewed. The hint of caramel and raisins mixed with sugar makes this irresistible. It is sexy and intriguing.

Tasted at BFT tasting in London. The Grahams ’94 is still very tight and youthful on the nose, quite strict and conservative with smoky black fruit with hints of Chinese 5-spice, singed leather and bay leaf. Very well defined. The palate is full-bodied, creamy in texture on the entry, very spicy with a thwack of lemongrass and ginger on the black palate, superb length, a Grahams straining at the leash. This has impressive length: muscular and compelling. Excellent. Drink now-2035. Tasted April 2010.

The best vintage of the 1990s. 'It was difficult to decide which wines to exclude,' according to Johnny Symington. Blackish ruby. Prunes, liquorice and eucalyptus flavours. Rich and treacly. High toned on the nose and very luscious on the palate. Already great fun to drink. (JR)