The 2019 Vin de Constance is matured for 18 months in 500-liter Hungarian and French oak barrels, 50% new, followed by another 18 months in oak foudres. The growing season saw more sunlight hours than previous vintages (2,998 compared to 2,588 in 2018 for example). It has an understated nose, almost Sauternes-like even if it does not contain an ounce of botrytis. Subtle nutty aromas percolate through the wild honey and quince scents, wax resin and lanolin. The palate is medium-bodied and very pure. Disarmingly fine acidity, it is slightly Germanic towards the finish. with a hint of lemongrass lingering on the aftertaste. This is a superb Vin de Constance under the tenure of Matt Day that is a step closer to what you might confusingly call a non-sweet dessert wine.

Floral, focused and sweet, the 2019 Vin de Constance Natural Sweet Wine bursts out of the glass with layers of picturesque sweet citrus and stone fruit purée. The palate possesses a brilliant balance between succulent, sweet fruit flavors and layers of complexity that sway with focus and finesse, power and prestige. Gobs of sweet citrus and white peach are on display with attractive, healthy fruit, showing an impeccable balance between residual sugar and energetic acidity. This beauty will last for decades and has me dreaming of aged soft blue cheeses.

Barrel sample of the initial blend. Will be reblended after three years’ barrel maturation. RS 162 g/l . Intense, powerful nose of apricot, orange and white flowers. On the palate, rich and sweet with a touch of spice, but a very fine line of acidity keeping beautiful harmony. Very long. This will fill out with more vanilla creaminess from longer maturation. (TJ)