Has any brand in South Africa achieved quite so much as Porseleinberg in less than a decade? This is the best vintage yet from this steep, brutal, extreme schist-rich site and that's saying a good deal. Big, bold and intense, with incredible, almost feral intensity, incense, tar and black pepper aromas and layers of inky dark fruit. A stunning wine from a stunning site, made by a gem of a winemaker.

The 2017 Porseleinberg saw 327mm of rain, which fell later in the season and meant they could irrigate at the right time. It was also much cooler than the previous year. Matured 70% in wooden foudre and 30% concrete eggs, this is a little more tertiary and austere on the nose with leather and bay leaf notes. The fruit gains presence with aeration. The palate is fresh and linear, well-defined with a gradual build in the mouth. There is real tension and depth, slight viscosity toward the finish with a beguiling peacock's tail on the finish. Magnificent.
Vinous, Nov 2019