The 1998, which is a candidate for the "Wine of the Vintage," was produced from yields of 0.9 tons per acre. There are only 1,100 cases, and it is the first Harlan Estate to be composed of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. A spectacular achievement, it boasts an opaque plum/purple color as well as a sumptuous nose of espresso, mineral, blueberry, blackberry, tobacco, licorice, Asian spice, and roasted meat smells. In the mouth, it is seamless, full-bodied, with an unctuous texture, gorgeously sweet tannin, and layer upon layer of concentration. This is a tour de force in winemaking. It is hard to believe that a wine such as this has emerged from 1998. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2030. Tel. (707) 844-1441; fax (707) 944-1444

Saturated dark ruby. Aromas of black fruits, bitter chocolate, caramel and nutty, charred oak. Amazingly lush and silky for the year, with ripe flavors of black cherry, black raspberry and licorice. Can't match the '97, or the '99, for sheer density but this is bright, concentrated, suave and very long. Tannins are even and fine. A remarkable performance in the context of the year.

Magnum. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, remainder: Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot. The cool length of the 1998 vintage seems to lift from the glass here with notes of gunmetal and graphite wrapped through with lavender. Savoury porcini and meat juices wash through the mouth, with a surprisingly fresh element from the nose through the palate. Acidity here is bright and notable. The tannin character is a bit more grippy though also finely grained. There is just a bit of muskiness here as well. (ECB)